Cooling mods for the average Joe

[BuntaTypeR]

I guess I am old school but temperatures for coolant, oil and transmission fluid have closely related optimal operational temperature windows where oil can run a little hotter than the other two. Anything creeping past 225 in those fluid temperatures should warrant attention IMHO but the solution is more challenging when having to contend with a parallel cooling system.

Parallel cooling was introduced simply as a means to get all of the components up to temperature as quickly as possible. Many vehicles today also use higher rated thermostats (e.g., 195 degrees before opening) in an effort to run hotter for the sake of emissions while at the same time increasing wear and introducing fluid degradation.

The logged temperature shown on the Type R’s screen appears to be inaccurate. I’m running a dedicated engine oil temperature gauge, and I consistently see a 40–80°F delta depending on airflow through the dual oil coolers. It seems the value on the log screen is an ECU-calculated estimate rather than a direct sensor reading, though it's unclear which data source it's using. My assumption is that Honda implemented this as a safeguard. Likely using a conservative algorithm to trigger limp mode well before temperatures reach levels that could pose a risk to engine integrity.

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[BuntaTypeR]

I am creating a transmission cooler kit that when paired with the radiator I'm working on should really help. The trans cooler can be attached in parallel or with divorcing the two systems, just depending on how the user wants to go about things for whatever their driving conditions are.

I think it will help all systems run a little happier

ill be interested in this - divorcing the two systems,

 

[naafl5]

Thank you to everyone that has chimed in on this thread. Some truly insightful thoughts and suggestions.

@Rhorn I appreciate your candid feedback that I shouldn't be looking for problems. It helped put things into perspective.

@siwelnosaj amazing product! Seems like low hanging fruit and a relatively low-cost way to get some more margin out of temperatures. I may be reaching out to you soon.

@BuntaTypeR I occasionally go on backroad drives with groups where I'll mostly be in 2nd or 3rd gear between 3k-5k RPMS that lasts about an hour or so. That being said, I don't think I'd even want to leave the house if temps outside are 95 lol.

I think there are some great suggestions from everyone else here should I start to notice some level of degraded performance from heat soak.


Two question I had still though was:

1. Should it ever come to the point where I need a larger intercooler have others noticed turbo lag?

2. Is an intercooler the last resort after all the other suggested cooling mods (i.e upgraded radiator and oil cooling)?

 

[siwelnosaj]

The logged temperature shown on the Type R’s screen appears to be inaccurate. I’m running a dedicated engine oil temperature gauge, and I consistently see a 40–80°F delta depending on airflow through the dual oil coolers. It seems the value on the log screen is an ECU-calculated estimate rather than a direct sensor reading, though it's unclear which data source it's using. My assumption is that Honda implemented this as a safeguard. Likely using a conservative algorithm to trigger limp mode well before temperatures reach levels that could pose a risk to engine integrity.

I wonder if the calculated oil temp has any input on triggering limp mode or if it's only coolant temps. My guess is it's just coolant but I'm not positive

Thank you to everyone that has chimed in on this thread. Some truly insightful thoughts and suggestions.

@Rhorn I appreciate your candid feedback that I shouldn't be looking for problems. It helped put things into perspective.

@siwelnosaj amazing product! Seems like low hanging fruit and a relatively low-cost way to get some more margin out of temperatures. I may be reaching out to you soon.

@BuntaTypeR I occasionally go on backroad drives with groups where I'll mostly be in 2nd or 3rd gear between 3k-5k RPMS that lasts about an hour or so. That being said, I don't think I'd even want to leave the house if temps outside are 95 lol.

I think there are some great suggestions from everyone else here should I start to notice some level of degraded performance from heat soak.


Two question I had still though was:

1. Should it ever come to the point where I need a larger intercooler have others noticed turbo lag?

2. Is an intercooler the last resort after all the other suggested cooling mods (i.e upgraded radiator and oil cooling)?

An intercooler doesn't necessary help with engine cooling and in fact might hurt. It's for charge air temp to help create more power, and usually with more power comes more engine heat. Additionally a lot of the aftermarket intercoolers, due mostly to their larger size, they actually hurt cooling by creating more restriction in air flow to the lower half of the radiator.

 

[Rhorn]

One thing you can do to help lower temps thats not mentioned here is creamic costing your downpipe and heat shields, same with the turbo.

Ive heard mixed things about turbo blankets and heat wrapping downpipes

Im planning on doing that when I purchase an exhuast

 

[naafl5]

One thing you can do to help lower temps thats not mentioned here is creamic costing your downpipe and heat shields, same with the turbo.

Ive heard mixed things about turbo blankets and heat wrapping downpipes

Im planning on doing that when I purchase an exhuast

A TSP Downpipe that is ceramic coated is making its way to my doorstep as we speak

 

[naafl5]

An intercooler doesn't necessary help with engine cooling and in fact might hurt. It's for charge air temp to help create more power, and usually with more power comes more engine heat. Additionally a lot of the aftermarket intercoolers, due mostly to their larger size, they actually hurt cooling by creating more restriction in air flow to the lower half of the radiator.

Got it. You see all these type R's with "PRL" plastered in the front grill and think "surely, there must be a reason".

 

[siwelnosaj]

Got it. You see all these type R's with "PRL" plastered in the front grill and think "surely, there must be a reason".

It helps with power, that's the main reason

There are better aftermarket options. I'm selling the PWR intercooler which is not only out performing the other units out there as far as charge temps, it's also less than half the weight at 10.5 lbs and should be minimally invasive for the radiator air flow.

 

[Rhorn]

A TSP Downpipe that is ceramic coated is making its way to my doorstep as we speak

Did you go with Swain tech?

 

[blueroadster]

Regarding ceramic exhaust coatings, I’d highly recommend going with Swaintech:

https://swaintech.com/race-coatings/race-coating-descriptions/white-lightning-exhaust-coatings/

 

[naafl5]

Did you go with Swain tech?

No, TSP has an option to cerakote the downpipes before they get shipped to you. Not sure who or what they use to get that done.

 

[blueroadster]

It helps with power, that's the main reason

There are better aftermarket options. I'm selling the PWR intercooler which is not only out performing the other units out there as far as charge temps, it's also less than half the weight at 10.5 lbs and should be minimally invasive for the radiator air flow.

Would you happen to know how much the PWR intercooler weighs? The J's Racing T&F intercooler tips the scale at 5,895 grams (just shy of 13 lbs).

 

[siwelnosaj]

Would you happen to know how much the PWR intercooler weighs? The J's Racing T&F intercooler tips the scale at 5,895 grams (just shy of 13 lbs).

PWR is 10.5 LBS and uses their F1 internal tech, that's why it's able to perform so well at such a small size. Let me know if you would like to order one at some point.

 

[blueroadster]

PWR is 10.5 LBS and uses their F1 internal tech, that's why it's able to perform so well at such a small size. Let me know if you would like to order one at some point.

Duh...You even mentioned the weight in your previous post that I quoted. I'm good in the intercooler department.

 

[Rhorn]

Regarding ceramic exhaust coatings, I’d highly recommend going with Swaintech:

https://swaintech.com/race-coatings/race-coating-descriptions/white-lightning-exhaust-coatings/

Whenever I get the TSP downpipe I will be purchasing the turbo cover and the catalytic converter cover and having them do the coating.

The turbo cover is around $60 and the catalytic converter is $70. I'd buy them individually and just send it to them vs having to take them off and send it in.

I feel like that should reduce temperatures a bit, at least it should in theory.

You think this is a good idea?

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