Cooling mods for the average Joe

blueroadster

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Whenever I get the TSP downpipe I will be purchasing the turbo cover and the catalytic converter cover and having them do the coating.

The turbo cover is around $60 and the catalytic converter is $70. I'd buy them individually and just send it to them vs having to take them off and send it in.

I feel like that should reduce temperatures a bit, at least it should in theory.

You think this is a good idea?
Not sure what you meant by "turbo cover is around $60 and the catalytic converter is $70"? I guess you are thinking about buying spare heat shields to coat? If that is the case, I would scratch that idea and just use the stock heat shields as they are. They could also be removed and replaced with blankets on the turbine housing and downpipe.

I'm doing the turbine/exhaust side upgrades in baby steps starting with having Swaintech coat the downpipe. Eventually, I also plan to have them coat the turbine housing and front pipe whenever I buy replacements for those particular parts.
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Rhorn

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Not sure what you meant by "turbo cover is around $60 and the catalytic converter is $70"? I guess you are thinking about buying spare heat shields to coat? If that is the case, I would scratch that idea and just use the stock heat shields as they are. They could also be removed and replaced with blankets on the turbine housing and downpipe.

I'm doing the turbine/exhaust side upgrades in baby steps starting with having Swaintech coat the downpipe. Eventually, I also plan to have them coat the turbine housing and front pipe whenever I buy replacements for those particular parts.
Those are just the official names for the heat shields, there is one that covers the turbo and one that covers the downpipe.

11th Gen Honda Civic Cooling mods for the average Joe 765487009


I only want to purchase them separately because id rather just buy them, have them and the downpipe go straight to swain tech, and get them back all ready to install. The parts are inexpensive so it doesn't seem like its a huge lost in purchasing them as replacements.

I've heard controversial things about turbo blankets and wraps. 1 thing with turbo blankets is that oil stops cycling when you turn the car off, the blanket retains heat and it will basically cook your turbo over time and cause excessive wear. This is a video that talks about the problem.



For heat wraps I've heard of people saying that on rare instances they can quickly cause a fire because if oil somehow gets on them it'll be bad because of how hot they are, and that the OEM heat shields are better.

This goes above my head of so I'm just throwing out the information I've had people share with me. He does recommend coating the turbine housing so you are on the right track, and also recommends shielding with air gaps which what the OEM turbo shield has.

Im not sure how to remove the turbo housing so you'll have to post a DIY dummy style video or thread so I can follow.

You think coating a front pipe would help? I feel like thats so out of the way it really wont matter. But it cant hurt I guess.
 
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VtecSlayer

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Those are just the official names for the heat shields, there is one that covers the turbo and one that covers the downpipe.

765487009.jpg


I only want to purchase them separately because id rather just buy them, have them and the downpipe go straight to swain tech, and get them back all ready to install. The parts are inexpensive so it doesn't seem like its a huge lost in purchasing them as replacements.

I've heard controversial things about turbo blankets and wraps. 1 thing with turbo blankets is that oil stops cycling when you turn the car off, the blanket retains heat and it will basically cook your turbo over time and cause excessive wear. This is a video that talks about the problem.



For heat wraps I've heard of people saying that on rare instances they can quickly cause a fire because if oil somehow gets on them it'll be bad because of how hot they are, and that the OEM heat shields are better.

This goes above my head of so I'm just throwing out the information I've had people share with me. He does recommend coating the turbine housing so you are on the right track, and also recommends shielding with air gaps which what the OEM turbo shield has.

Im not sure how to remove the turbo housing so you'll have to post a DIY dummy style video or thread so I can follow.

You think coating a front pipe would help? I feel like thats so out of the way it really wont matter. But it cant hurt I guess.
Yes, wraps are good but get oil on them and your fugged lol.

I've got the links to some sick heat management products that will set you back around $1K for both. They will replace the shields in your photo btw! ;) Just send me a PM.
 

blueroadster

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Those are just the official names for the heat shields, there is one that covers the turbo and one that covers the downpipe.

765487009.jpg


I only want to purchase them separately because id rather just buy them, have them and the downpipe go straight to swain tech, and get them back all ready to install. The parts are inexpensive so it doesn't seem like its a huge lost in purchasing them as replacements.
Thanks...I understand what you are saying better now. White Lightning is a ceramic coating intended for exhaust components. I never really thought about coating the heat shields though as they are more like reflective baffles instead of a part where heat needs to be shielded or contained. For that reason, I really do not see a need although Swaintech has many other coating offerings that I have used in the past for other components.

I've heard controversial things about turbo blankets and wraps. 1 thing with turbo blankets is that oil stops cycling when you turn the car off, the blanket retains heat and it will basically cook your turbo over time and cause excessive wear. This is a video that talks about the problem.
That situation is not excessive wear on the turbo but more so clogging of oil arteries otherwise known as oil coking. That condition was common in oil and non-water cooled turbos when shutting the car off after a hard run without a cooldown period. Essentially, the oil was boiling in the tubes causing buildup in the passages after the car was turned off...The heat had no where else to go other than burn in its existing place.

As for coatings such as CeraKote, it is a thin ceramic layer applied that does not bond well to the underlying metal itself. White Lightning on the other hand bonds to the metal.

As for blankets and wraps, they are very effective at containing heat but are known to cause moisture traps. For example, don't slap those things on a raw downpipe thinking that you are golden.

For heat wraps I've heard of people saying that on rare instances they can quickly cause a fire because if oil somehow gets on them it'll be bad because of how hot they are, and that the OEM heat shields are better.
Sounds like they had a leak. Blankets and wraps are non-combustible and have high heat ratings.

This goes above my head of so I'm just throwing out the information I've had people share with me. He does recommend coating the turbine housing so you are on the right track, and also recommends shielding with air gaps which what the OEM turbo shield has.
No worries...We all share ideas and learn from each other. One could go hog wild with upgrades but I think it is best to understand what your short and long term expectations are with the car and plan accordingly.

Im not sure how to remove the turbo housing so you'll have to post a DIY dummy style video or thread so I can follow.

You think coating a front pipe would help? I feel like thats so out of the way it really wont matter. But it cant hurt I guess.
I have no intentions of sending off the stock turbine housing to get coated. If I bought a replacement turbo assembly, I would send the turbine side out to get coated prior to install.

As for coating the front pipe, I can't imagine there would be much benefit. I think that part would be more of a what the hell, I might as well stuff something else in the box to get coated while other parts are being coated.
 


B16B

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Thoughts on running something like the Spoon radiator/reservoir cap? Apparently raises the boiling point.
 

blueroadster

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VtecSlayer

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Please elaborate…Thanks!
I live in S. Florida where the heat is always around so wanted to make sure my heat management was up to paar.

Heat Management Setup:

- PRL FMIC
- PRL HVIK
- APR Carbon Radiator Cooling Plates
- Dream Hardlagged Turbo Heatshield
- TSP 5" HEDP non-cerakoted
- PTP Hybrid Downpipe Blanket
- @Jester04 Custom Tune

I'm using the factory skid plate but thinking about upgrading to WOTs in the future however I don't plan on tracking. Eventually I'll install my PRL charge pipe kit.

Hope this helps and if you need links or deals on the above parts or svc by Jester just shoot me a DM.
 

cryptolime

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Thoughts on running something like the Spoon radiator/reservoir cap? Apparently raises the boiling point.
hmmm....i wonder what effect that has on the rest of the cooling system. does it put more strain on the water pump?
 


a c i d.f l y

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Does anyone run the reverse-flow radiator hoses so the hot water goes into the top bottom of the radiator, not the bottom top, which is directly behind the intercooler? This is supposed to improve radiator and intercooler performance.

https://acuityinstruments.com/produ...civic-type-r-and-5th-gen-acura-integra-type-s

*Edited to correct flow statement.

*Update: I'm unsure how placing the hot flow through the radiator behind the hot intercooler improves the performance of the intercooler or radiator. But apparently, it does in action, as seen on the track where they're running reverse lines and an oil cooler, and temps are maintained (better maintained, not completely resolved).
 
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cryptolime

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blueroadster

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Thoughts on running something like the Spoon radiator/reservoir cap? Apparently raises the boiling point.
For what purpose? Attempting to grenade the plastic coolant expansion tank? Why the need to consider?
 

blueroadster

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Does anyone run the reverse-flow radiator hoses so the hot water goes into the top of the radiator, not the bottom, which is directly behind the intercooler? This is supposed to improve radiator and intercooler performance.

https://acuityinstruments.com/produ...civic-type-r-and-5th-gen-acura-integra-type-s
Acuity makes some great products but IMHO the reverse-flow radiator hoses are a hopeium solution. The stock radiator is a single pass and the stock intercooler will still transfer the same amount of heat that the radiator will have to contend with regardless of coolant travel direction. Changing directional flow may reduce coolant temps by "as much as an additional 4.5 degrees" as claimed but what about when the intercooler is swapped out or if the radiator is upgraded?
 

B16B

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For what purpose? Attempting to grenade the plastic coolant expansion tank? Why the need to consider?
Just for the “looks” :p

are the plastic expansion tanks overall weak on the FL5?
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