Jester’s FL5 build journal.

tezzasaurusrex

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Ok so as promised a little info on tuning just for comparison’s sake.
Stock timing vs Hondata 93 map.

It is also quite a bit leaner on the Hondata map. The reason for this is since the map asks for more boost it will tax the HPFP more and it being a mechanical pump there is only so much the cam can move the fuel pump at a given RPM. On boost spike they managed to give it a bit more fuel but up top they took out enough to make the car run cleaner.
Nice! Thanks for sharing this.

I think the leaner mixtures will definitely play a part in the cooling system issues a lot of Hondata base map tune users were having on the FK8 platform - be interesting to see how you get on with temps on track
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Jester04

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Nice! Thanks for sharing this.

I think the leaner mixtures will definitely play a part in the cooling system issues a lot of Hondata base map tune users were having on the FK8 platform - be interesting to see how you get on with temps on track
So yes to answer your previous question. The Stock map is leaner on tip in throttle but the car can’t really build boost there so its not really a big difference. The Hondata starts commanding a richer AFR on tip in and peak boost but then on the higher rpms is where it leans it out the most.

As for track duty, I believe a richer air fuel will help keep cylinder temps in a more reasonable area so they do have to be adjusted from the Hondata canned tune. The custom map I’m making its already targeting 11.2’s-11.4’s.
 

tezzasaurusrex

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So yes to answer your previous question. The Stock map is leaner on tip in throttle but the car can’t really build boost there so its not really a big difference. The Hondata starts commanding a richer AFR on tip in and peak boost but then on the higher rpms is where it leans it out the most.

As for track duty, I believe a richer air fuel will help keep cylinder temps in a more reasonable area so they do have to be adjusted from the Hondata canned tune. The custom map I’m making its already targeting 11.2’s-11.4’s.
Oh yes I went back and re-read it and realised I was sorely mistaken and edited my whole post.
Would love to see what you end up creating, will your tune be available for the wider market?
 
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Jester04

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Oh yes I went back and re-read it and realised I was sorely mistaken and edited my whole post.
Would love to see what you end up creating, will your tune be available for the wider market?
I would not be opposed to it, and would offer it to people so they have more options after it has thoroughly been tested.
 
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Jester04

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Took the car for a alignment after a month of having the springs installed. Will need some camber plates or ball joint camber adjustment to correct some of the discrepancies. But the car feels a lot better with quicker initial turn in and adjusted for better rotation around corners.

Before

11th Gen Honda Civic Jester’s FL5 build journal. IMG_2649


After

11th Gen Honda Civic Jester’s FL5 build journal. IMG_2650
 


tezzasaurusrex

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Took the car for a alignment after a month of having the springs installed. Will need some camber plates or ball joint camber adjustment to correct some of the discrepancies. But the car feels a lot better with quicker initial turn in and adjusted for better rotation around corners.

Before

IMG_2649.jpeg


After

IMG_2650.jpeg
The ball joints won't really solve the 0.3° discrepancy on the front end as they are a stepped design (ie. the shims only allow you to go from 0, -1°, and -2° and nothing in between).
Removing the strut pins however will enable to you move the struts 0.3° either way. But an even better solution is shifting the front subframe over to the left a touch, or installing rigid collars should get you even front camber. I suspect the front subframe is little biased over to the right in your case.
 
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Jester04

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The ball joints won't really solve the 0.3° discrepancy on the front end as they are a stepped design (ie. the shims only allow you to go from 0, -1°, and -2° and nothing in between).
Removing the strut pins however will enable to you move the struts 0.3° either way. But an even better solution is shifting the front subframe over to the left a touch, or installing rigid collars should get you even front camber. I suspect the front subframe is little biased over to the right in your case.
I have been researching this and will likely do the rigid collars and do the adjustable top hats for the stock shocks so I have all the adjustability I could possibly need. Also need a bigger sway bar for the rear. But all of that will have to wait.😂

Need to save back up such a shame lol.
 

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I have been researching this and will likely do the rigid collars and do the adjustable top hats for the stock shocks so I have all the adjustability I could possibly need. Also need a bigger sway bar for the rear. But all of that will have to wait.😂

Need to save back up such a shame lol.
Don't buy the bigger sway bar just yet, track it first. I'm still on completely stock suspension and the factory sway bar allows for decent rotation and is extremely predictable.
 
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Jester04

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Don't buy the bigger sway bar just yet, track it first. I'm still on completely stock suspension and the factory sway bar allows for decent rotation and is extremely predictable.
Yeah not buying it yet just putting it on my list of expenses😂 and its an expensive list. Also want to do the mods progressively to accurately gauge what works and how it changes.
 

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Yeah not buying it yet just putting it on my list of expenses😂 and its an expensive list. Also want to do the mods progressively to accurately gauge what works and how it changes.
I'm still waiting for a decent garrett based turbo kit to drop, and really want 4piston to re-work my engine up to stage 4, but those are years down the road. The prices are so high! Fuel system from JSR racing is like 3500 bucks!
 


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Jester04

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I'm still waiting for a decent garrett based turbo kit to drop, and really want 4piston to re-work my engine up to stage 4, but those are years down the road. The prices are so high! Fuel system from JSR racing is like 3500 bucks!
Yeah it gets expensive quick! I have an extra F22C for the s2000 that I want to send to 4 piston too, its about 14k for the damn rebuild lol.
 

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They sure do! Also when you get the Hondata touch base with me I want to share something with you and get your opinion.
Sounds good! Though keep in mind! I think you may be way more versed in tuning than me!
 
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Jester04

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Sounds good! Though keep in mind! I think you may be way more versed in tuning than me!
Its all good, just want you to try the track map and see how you like it. No cost and you can get logs and I will check them. It will go quicker this way and everything will be extra safe.
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