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I own an FK8, but I suppose it should work on the FL5 too. You just have to select 500kb/s as bus speed.

Yes, we can export logs from LogR to our phones. I suppose you could do something similar with the FL5 LogR uploading logs to "my server". Not sure how to set that up though.

Yeah, I only tried from the OBDII on my FK8. I only mentioned it because OP said he tried the generic protocol and couldn't read anything. I do get my logs from logR, though. It's good enough for most analyses. I can read gear position, brake pressure, steering angle, clutch pedal position etc.

People used to make it work with the FK2 profile in pre-facelift FK8s (the FK8 profile is quite recent). The facelift has honda sensing and added another F-CAN bus and a CAN gateway. AFAIK no one ever had it working with the facelift FK8. The wiring diagram no longer shows F-CAN is available at...

Just received a hardrace set. Jhpusa has them in stock. My whiteline started to fail and decided to get quality parts this time. See vídeo at https://www.civicx.com/forum/threads/excessive-play-in-lower-ball-joints.93348/ I don't have any issues removing the rotor screw with the hand impact...

Our dash shows the correct sensor reading. I have a P3 gauge to monitor Oil temp (sensor at the drain bolt), ECT1, ECT2, IAT1, IAT2 (from OBD). I can only see one number at a time, so I have to cycle between them. And ECT1 always matches with LogR. Now, to say it's accurate we'd need to have...

IIRC you have a tune, right? At 92F ambient that ECT1 definitely isn't that high after 6 hotlaps (I assume). Indeed that might be good enough for time attack. My threshold to start a cooldown lap is 110 C/230F coolant as I consider the car has overheated by then. Max power is long gone and...

Next step is a MAF-less tune and an intake duct on the other side of the car, just like the TCRs. Then you can have the whole hood vent open!

Tezza says the same thing about his car, it's indeed curious. What water temps are you seeing?

You don't need to remove it. Remove the 3 screws that hold it in place and rotate the dust shield to expose the lower ball joint. That's interesting. The FK8 manual says the lower ball joint is not a serviceable part, you have to replace the whole knuckle. For the FL5, they sell replacement...

A lower ECT1 is all that matters. But yeah you should compare in similar weather and similar load. This is odd. Our cars run water through the heater core all the time, so it shouldn't need to have the heater on to work properly. Indeed the thermostat should take longer to open up because your...

Hey Tony. I used to run that drivencrazy's kit on my fk8. I had problems exactly because it was connected in series with the main radiator. Such large difference between ECT1 and ECT2 (16 C) means flow is being restricted. A well designed system has a small temperature difference, but lower...

Ironically I was just discussing about this. I wasn't using temperature markers, so I really don't know. The amount of energy converted to heat should be the same, but the thermal conductivity of these pads might be higher indeed. Ti shims should help you with that.

That's normal when the thermostat is completely opened. Well designed cooling systems have a small temp difference and low average core temp. When you see larger separation, it usually means the thermostat is partially closed because ECT1 is already low enough.

Sounds good enough. You might be interested: https://www.civicx.com/forum/threads/swapping-front-pads-for-hpde-track-day.85262/#post-1270334

Yes, those rings are for the OEM hats. To be fair, not the easiest job no, considering any under/overtightening or missing the sequence can be of catastrophic consequences. I also had an issue with a manufacturing defect that Paragon promptly helped me out. All in all it unfortunately was a...

Here you go, if you still need it: https://www.civicx.com/forum/threads/fl5-camo-vector-or-ai-file.91368/post-1340732

Both are a little squeaky. Can't say much about rotor wear yet, but the RPX supposedly causes greater wear. I went through 5-6 RPX sets before changing rotors for the first time. Rotors still had >50% life, but the rotor surface was badly deteriorated and required more and more time to seat new...

Yeah do it! I only wish they had less bite. They could lock the racing slicks with 70% pedal pressure. Exactly! It was unnerving for sure.

There's a leaflet in the box with instructions. They do recommend a few stops for mating in. But since there's no material transfer, it doesn't require the usual one or two heat cycles for bedding in. I don't change pads for the track. The sr11 (or the rpx before) are there all the time, even...