Integra23
Senior Member
For the trunk area is it still worth doing the Amazon sound deadening then the 4mm or just the 4mm. Also I noticed they offer 10mm , would a single layer of this be beneficial over 2 of the 4mm? Or would it be too thick?
johnloov
Senior Member
That's a good question.
The sound deadening only really helps deaden vibrations - You probably can get away with just putting it into strategic areas that sound like a tin can. Then use the close cell foam - blanket it - The sound deadener - it does also reduce noise but really the foam is the way to go as this really insulates out sound - I went overkill with the sound deadening - as I didn't want to go back and experiment - I wanted to turn the car into a Mercedes - give it that vault like feeling - But in reality, if you are looking to just block off sound - This 4mm material is excellent - Super easy to install - Very sticky - And you can double up on it to get 8mm, which you should do everywhere you can.
If I had to do it all over again, I might only use this material as it's super light - easy to install - easy to manipulate - but you really need to seal off sound - blanket all the sound.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0BWD1M9Y5/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&th=1
1) Doors - So if you're doing doors. I would just pop off the door panel - put a layer of this 4mm over the water membrane on metal door, and then do another layer inside the plastic door panel. This is very easy to do.
2) Rear wheel wells and trunk. Just use the 4mm - 8mm double up everywhere you can - Especially fully those rear wheel arches. You need to cover all the way around that wheel arch or sound will escape and be transmitted into the cabin.
3) Floors - helps a lot - probably also could have gotten away with simply just the double 4mm closed cell foam.
Super easy to work with vs the amazon deadener which was hell to manipulate and roll on, and massage into all the metal parts of the car. The 4mm foam just rips to size and just sticks very strong. For sure spray alcohol first on all surfaces and wipe off to clean dust off to get good adhesion.
Just the 4mm sticky foam - get a tone of this stuff - and double it up where you can - That should do a lot - and 10-100x faster to install.
-----
When comparing closed cell foam to butyl sound deadener, butyl is generally considered more effective at dampening vibrations and reducing structural noise, while closed cell foam is better at absorbing high-frequency airborne sound waves; meaning that for most applications, especially in automotive soundproofing, a combination of both materials would provide the best results.
Key differences:
The sound deadening only really helps deaden vibrations - You probably can get away with just putting it into strategic areas that sound like a tin can. Then use the close cell foam - blanket it - The sound deadener - it does also reduce noise but really the foam is the way to go as this really insulates out sound - I went overkill with the sound deadening - as I didn't want to go back and experiment - I wanted to turn the car into a Mercedes - give it that vault like feeling - But in reality, if you are looking to just block off sound - This 4mm material is excellent - Super easy to install - Very sticky - And you can double up on it to get 8mm, which you should do everywhere you can.
If I had to do it all over again, I might only use this material as it's super light - easy to install - easy to manipulate - but you really need to seal off sound - blanket all the sound.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0BWD1M9Y5/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&th=1
1) Doors - So if you're doing doors. I would just pop off the door panel - put a layer of this 4mm over the water membrane on metal door, and then do another layer inside the plastic door panel. This is very easy to do.
2) Rear wheel wells and trunk. Just use the 4mm - 8mm double up everywhere you can - Especially fully those rear wheel arches. You need to cover all the way around that wheel arch or sound will escape and be transmitted into the cabin.
3) Floors - helps a lot - probably also could have gotten away with simply just the double 4mm closed cell foam.
Super easy to work with vs the amazon deadener which was hell to manipulate and roll on, and massage into all the metal parts of the car. The 4mm foam just rips to size and just sticks very strong. For sure spray alcohol first on all surfaces and wipe off to clean dust off to get good adhesion.
Just the 4mm sticky foam - get a tone of this stuff - and double it up where you can - That should do a lot - and 10-100x faster to install.
-----
When comparing closed cell foam to butyl sound deadener, butyl is generally considered more effective at dampening vibrations and reducing structural noise, while closed cell foam is better at absorbing high-frequency airborne sound waves; meaning that for most applications, especially in automotive soundproofing, a combination of both materials would provide the best results.
Key differences:
- Function:
- Butyl: Primarily functions as a vibration dampener, adhering tightly to surfaces to reduce resonant vibrations.
- Closed Cell Foam: Primarily absorbs airborne sound waves, particularly higher frequencies, by trapping sound within its closed cell structure.
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johnloov
Senior Member
Hi everyone, quick update - The car is now incredible - can drive it to Laguna Seca - 1.5 hour trip, road noise is excellent - no tinnitus ringing anymore - the car feels way more luxurious and solid - bouncy type R mode is gone - and she still runs extremely fast lap times - got it down to high 1.45s on stock PS4 tires, consistent - which is pretty fast. Car doesn't feel heavy on track. I added maybe ~150-160 lbs to the car. and most of the weight is on the floor, low center of gravity. Well worth it!
I upgraded to Cup2, still road noise is very good, it does get a bit louder than 4s but not much, depends on tarmac.
Here is are the videos and files of the project.
https://drive.google.com/drive/folders/19hRhyEoPDjLXySzOJ0p8k06GBFsXImbY?usp=sharing
I upgraded to Cup2, still road noise is very good, it does get a bit louder than 4s but not much, depends on tarmac.
Here is are the videos and files of the project.
https://drive.google.com/drive/folders/19hRhyEoPDjLXySzOJ0p8k06GBFsXImbY?usp=sharing
johnloov
Senior Member
Most - All rattle sounds, getting initiated or triggered - were drastically reduced and in most cases eliminated due to dampening. I don't hear anything unless I hit an extremely course road, that shakes the entire car -- Before the mods, the road noise was unbearable for me personally. Most of the dampening I did stopped vibrations traveling through the tin can chassis from the tires, suspension, through floors, doors, wheel wells, trunk into the interior - but yes over a very very very course road - usually unusual patches of road ( which I've only found small stretch on the highways ) it can bring some of the buzz back --- now especially with the Cup2s installed, I do get a buzz from the center rear view mirror, sometimes a small buzz from the seatbelt height adjustment ( did not perform the mod with zip tie to reduce that ) and sometimes the glove box -- but, when I emptied the contents of the glove box my rattles did go down or go away - I need to check.
In total the car was pretty much void of rattles with the 4s and noises and buzzes were way way less often, due to the dampening.
I'll do another sound level test on Cup2s - but so far road noise is about the same unless I hit a very bad patch of road, then the noise vibration becomes elevated on Cup2's vs 4s's due to the much stiffer sidewall transmitting that vibration.
Here is the video for the rear mirror fix -
In total the car was pretty much void of rattles with the 4s and noises and buzzes were way way less often, due to the dampening.
I'll do another sound level test on Cup2s - but so far road noise is about the same unless I hit a very bad patch of road, then the noise vibration becomes elevated on Cup2's vs 4s's due to the much stiffer sidewall transmitting that vibration.
Here is the video for the rear mirror fix -
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track.n.trail
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- Oct 7, 2024
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- FL5 Type R
Wrapped up my initial sound deadening plan on the FL5 this weekend. Killmat in the trunk, door cards, and door skins, 4mm aggsound acoustic foam covering the door cards, 3M SM200L Thinsulate lining the trunk, rear wheel wells, and under the rear seats. Road noise is significantly reduced on the highway, the speakers sound much clearer with tighter bass, and the doors sound much more solid when closed. I was surprised how much easier it is to have a conversation on the highway. Next up, some goodies from CDT Audio!
johnloov
Senior Member
Doesn’t everyone wish, the car came like this from the factory. Really I think there is a massive void in the market to make sports cars that have engineered sound deadening that remove migraine road noise, while preserving, engine sounds and driving performance.
This sound deadening project proves a little extra weight is massively beneficial to driving enjoyment, to have a car that has less road noise, and has almost no performance degradation on track.
I’m running consistently high 1.49s on a stock FL5 at Laguna Seca with ~160lbs of sound deadening proofing. I can drive to track, rip it up, and drive home while enjoying the stereo at low volumes, no speed volume adjustment, no tinnitus, or migraines.
Excited to see what everyone does here.
The zygrene review of the car is coming out soon, also followed up with a stock type r vs sound deadened back to back comparison. Stay tuned.
This sound deadening project proves a little extra weight is massively beneficial to driving enjoyment, to have a car that has less road noise, and has almost no performance degradation on track.
I’m running consistently high 1.49s on a stock FL5 at Laguna Seca with ~160lbs of sound deadening proofing. I can drive to track, rip it up, and drive home while enjoying the stereo at low volumes, no speed volume adjustment, no tinnitus, or migraines.
Excited to see what everyone does here.
The zygrene review of the car is coming out soon, also followed up with a stock type r vs sound deadened back to back comparison. Stay tuned.
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