johnloov
Senior Member
Ok here is my advice on where to start that's easiest and most effective. In total, It all matters. What I did was, I started first with the doors, but after I had done the doors, which helped at lower speeds, at higher speeds, the entire cabin was filled with tire noise, and that was coming from the rear tire wheel wells.
I would recommend:
1st) Do the trunk and rear inside wheel wells. This is the easiest and this will help the most, as the rear wheel wells are the only wheel wells that are inside the cabin of the car. The front wheel wells are not inside the cabin.
This is very easy to do, but make sure you first apply the Amazon Dampener, and then two layers of the 4mm foam, and MAKE SURE YOU BLANKET the entire wheel wells and everything else. After I went back and fully covered the wheel well the sound did go down further. This is the biggest culprit probably in filling the cabin full of noise.
https://www.amazon.com/AggSound-Uni...i=B0BWD1M9Y5&ref_=pd_bap_d_grid_rp_0_5_i&th=1
The trunk and rear wheel wheels are the easiest, and the access is easy.
2nd) Do the doors. Next easiest, but maybe you can simply get away with closing off the inner doors with this 4mm close cell foam.
This is probably worth a shot, if you can simply seal this sound off on the inside of the door, you'll save yourself a lot of time and really no weight will be added to the door. This 4mm stuff is very thin and effective. I would apply it over the entire inside of the door, and over the water membrane.
This is very fast to do, maybe 1 hour, and you can always go back, if it's not enough sound dampening and spend 10x more time/effort to do everything inside the door. I have a feeling, it will perform well if you do something similar to this picture below but cover the entire inside of the door. This material also compresses easy, so you can easily get the door on. Even if you cover the holes, the door will pop on right over it, and the pins will go straight through. Again, I wish I used this instead of the egg crate foam. It was much easier to work with. You can use a single layer on the inside doors, and if you do want to amazon deaden and dampen the body panel, then cover it with 2 layers of this 4mm, but again I think it's worth just trying to get away with a single layer, like this photo below... And use amazon deadener and a double layer of this 4mm closed cell foam, 8mm, on the trunk, wheel wells 4mm 1 layer, 8mm every where else you can.
3rd easiest.... It's a Tie between the floor and the outside wheel wells. I used amazon large pieces on the outside metal wheel well, and covered the plastic wheel well with 4mm foam. Maybe if you covered the entire metal wheel well with foam it would help but I didn’t want to risk under hard braking catching rubber on fire or rusting potential. Maybe if I did full coverage on the outside wheel wells it would have helped more but not sure. Maybe this could be very effective if it was full coverage of deadening and dampening. Unknown.. maybe someone can try.
The floor was the most effective sound dampening solution, made the entire car feel much more luxurious but still very fun and connected, and the wheel wells helped a touch also, but I was a bit frustrated with all those clips in the wheel wells. Finally figure out how to get them out with this needle metal looking tool that came with the plastic panel popper kit.
The wheel wells were a faster job to do than the floor. The floor I did a short cut, and did not have to remove the OEM stick shift, and I did not have to disassemble the stick shift bolts that go to the chassis. There were just a few tiny sections of the carpet, that connected the left and right side by the stick shift, and I did not want to touch any of that stuff, so I cut the carpet in the areas around the stick shift, and the entire carpet slipped out. BE CAREFUL IF YOU ARE CUTTING THERE. THERE ARE SOME WIRES RIGHT BELOW THE CARPET< You can feel the wiring harness by the stick shift bolts that connect to the chassis.
After I did all this, I had forgotten about some of the rear wheel wells, and I went back, and did that, and the sound improved in the cabin, so I am comfortable saying the Trunk, rear wheel wells, and while your at it, under the seats is probably the easiest to tackle and most effective.
Be sure to blanket the sound with the foam, especially the entire wheel rear well - this is key.
Happy to answer any questions if you get stuck somewhere.
Having a garage is very helpful.
With the Type R - I would simply pop off the doors, take those large rectangle square, and simply just slap it on over all these wires etc. I'm 99% you will be fine and if you do the inside of the panel, I think you are all set ! Do the inside the door and do the inside the plastic panel, and you're probably gonna be Aces!
Something like this -
I did take a friend for a ride yesterday, he was like.... man.. I'm totally surprised how comfortable this is.. he said that several times.
It was all well worth it.
I'm going to find some other Type R owners, and get some other feedback, and try to do some stock vs. dampened comparisons and collect some data.
My wife today also rode in the car weeks after Laguna Seca and she also commented the car is way quieter after doing the floor. It made a big difference.
I would recommend:
1st) Do the trunk and rear inside wheel wells. This is the easiest and this will help the most, as the rear wheel wells are the only wheel wells that are inside the cabin of the car. The front wheel wells are not inside the cabin.
This is very easy to do, but make sure you first apply the Amazon Dampener, and then two layers of the 4mm foam, and MAKE SURE YOU BLANKET the entire wheel wells and everything else. After I went back and fully covered the wheel well the sound did go down further. This is the biggest culprit probably in filling the cabin full of noise.
https://www.amazon.com/AggSound-Uni...i=B0BWD1M9Y5&ref_=pd_bap_d_grid_rp_0_5_i&th=1
The trunk and rear wheel wheels are the easiest, and the access is easy.
2nd) Do the doors. Next easiest, but maybe you can simply get away with closing off the inner doors with this 4mm close cell foam.
This is probably worth a shot, if you can simply seal this sound off on the inside of the door, you'll save yourself a lot of time and really no weight will be added to the door. This 4mm stuff is very thin and effective. I would apply it over the entire inside of the door, and over the water membrane.
This is very fast to do, maybe 1 hour, and you can always go back, if it's not enough sound dampening and spend 10x more time/effort to do everything inside the door. I have a feeling, it will perform well if you do something similar to this picture below but cover the entire inside of the door. This material also compresses easy, so you can easily get the door on. Even if you cover the holes, the door will pop on right over it, and the pins will go straight through. Again, I wish I used this instead of the egg crate foam. It was much easier to work with. You can use a single layer on the inside doors, and if you do want to amazon deaden and dampen the body panel, then cover it with 2 layers of this 4mm, but again I think it's worth just trying to get away with a single layer, like this photo below... And use amazon deadener and a double layer of this 4mm closed cell foam, 8mm, on the trunk, wheel wells 4mm 1 layer, 8mm every where else you can.
3rd easiest.... It's a Tie between the floor and the outside wheel wells. I used amazon large pieces on the outside metal wheel well, and covered the plastic wheel well with 4mm foam. Maybe if you covered the entire metal wheel well with foam it would help but I didn’t want to risk under hard braking catching rubber on fire or rusting potential. Maybe if I did full coverage on the outside wheel wells it would have helped more but not sure. Maybe this could be very effective if it was full coverage of deadening and dampening. Unknown.. maybe someone can try.
The floor was the most effective sound dampening solution, made the entire car feel much more luxurious but still very fun and connected, and the wheel wells helped a touch also, but I was a bit frustrated with all those clips in the wheel wells. Finally figure out how to get them out with this needle metal looking tool that came with the plastic panel popper kit.
The wheel wells were a faster job to do than the floor. The floor I did a short cut, and did not have to remove the OEM stick shift, and I did not have to disassemble the stick shift bolts that go to the chassis. There were just a few tiny sections of the carpet, that connected the left and right side by the stick shift, and I did not want to touch any of that stuff, so I cut the carpet in the areas around the stick shift, and the entire carpet slipped out. BE CAREFUL IF YOU ARE CUTTING THERE. THERE ARE SOME WIRES RIGHT BELOW THE CARPET< You can feel the wiring harness by the stick shift bolts that connect to the chassis.
After I did all this, I had forgotten about some of the rear wheel wells, and I went back, and did that, and the sound improved in the cabin, so I am comfortable saying the Trunk, rear wheel wells, and while your at it, under the seats is probably the easiest to tackle and most effective.
Be sure to blanket the sound with the foam, especially the entire wheel rear well - this is key.
Happy to answer any questions if you get stuck somewhere.
Having a garage is very helpful.
With the Type R - I would simply pop off the doors, take those large rectangle square, and simply just slap it on over all these wires etc. I'm 99% you will be fine and if you do the inside of the panel, I think you are all set ! Do the inside the door and do the inside the plastic panel, and you're probably gonna be Aces!
Something like this -
I did take a friend for a ride yesterday, he was like.... man.. I'm totally surprised how comfortable this is.. he said that several times.
It was all well worth it.
I'm going to find some other Type R owners, and get some other feedback, and try to do some stock vs. dampened comparisons and collect some data.
My wife today also rode in the car weeks after Laguna Seca and she also commented the car is way quieter after doing the floor. It made a big difference.
Last edited:
Imped
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Great summary, thank you. I'll be putting in some time this winter.
Next up for you: TIRES.
Next up for you: TIRES.
johnloov
Senior Member
I did the inside of the doors, as I recommended it, and it also helped, and it maybe all you need.
I had done the body panel of doors, which took a lot of work, and really went all out with the Amazon deadener and Egg Crate foam on the outside facing door panel, but I went back and since I had more of this 4mm material I put in on the inside of the door -- it helped additional reduce road noise. My doors are now over over kill.
I did notice now after putting this 4mm foam on the inside, my base response from door speakers improved as well. The stereo sounded amazing before I just did this, but now it's at another level. I disabled speed volume increase as the sound is so well insulated, on the highway, I don't need to turn up the volume at al.
If you're looking for the fastest hack, and don't want to add any weight. I would simply just pop off the doors, and cover the inside like this, then do the trunk and wheel wells.
1) For sure get the amazon panel removal kit. I used many of the tools there and it helped tremendously
2) Just do the inside of the doors first with this 4mm foam, takes 1 hour total for all doors. It will seal off a lot of the sound. Now I'm thinking, maybe I didn't need to dampen or sound proof the body panel, if you can cut off the sound entering from the door.
3) Trunk and interior rear wheel wheel. Again seal it.
Panel Kit Tools are important makes life easy when clips don't come off
This is open cell foam. I under every window controller and I used it in the rear trunk by the air pressure release. This captures sound.
This worked very very well. I just did it, Maybe it was over kill to do the body panel under here.
Tools are very helpful. A must.
This is at 55mph.
This is at 65mph on 8/10 road highway.
Open Cell Foam.
4mm foam sealed door
I had kept this stock, because behind here is the entire outside door panel Amazon Deadened and Egg Crate foam sound insulation. I did notice this did help when I covered it. I would do this first, and maybe that's all you need for the doors.
I had done the body panel of doors, which took a lot of work, and really went all out with the Amazon deadener and Egg Crate foam on the outside facing door panel, but I went back and since I had more of this 4mm material I put in on the inside of the door -- it helped additional reduce road noise. My doors are now over over kill.
I did notice now after putting this 4mm foam on the inside, my base response from door speakers improved as well. The stereo sounded amazing before I just did this, but now it's at another level. I disabled speed volume increase as the sound is so well insulated, on the highway, I don't need to turn up the volume at al.
If you're looking for the fastest hack, and don't want to add any weight. I would simply just pop off the doors, and cover the inside like this, then do the trunk and wheel wells.
1) For sure get the amazon panel removal kit. I used many of the tools there and it helped tremendously
2) Just do the inside of the doors first with this 4mm foam, takes 1 hour total for all doors. It will seal off a lot of the sound. Now I'm thinking, maybe I didn't need to dampen or sound proof the body panel, if you can cut off the sound entering from the door.
3) Trunk and interior rear wheel wheel. Again seal it.
Panel Kit Tools are important makes life easy when clips don't come off
This is open cell foam. I under every window controller and I used it in the rear trunk by the air pressure release. This captures sound.
This worked very very well. I just did it, Maybe it was over kill to do the body panel under here.
Tools are very helpful. A must.
This is at 55mph.
This is at 65mph on 8/10 road highway.
Open Cell Foam.
4mm foam sealed door
I had kept this stock, because behind here is the entire outside door panel Amazon Deadened and Egg Crate foam sound insulation. I did notice this did help when I covered it. I would do this first, and maybe that's all you need for the doors.
johnloov
Senior Member
Went back and completed blanketed areas in trunk with the 4mm in areas I had missed the egg crate foam didn’t fit.
project is probably done - maybe will try to find a type s stock hood sound insulation see if it fits
project is probably done - maybe will try to find a type s stock hood sound insulation see if it fits
Last edited:
heartbeat91
Member
Could you do a video on how you removed the rattling in the seatbelt adjuster driver's side?
johnloov
Senior Member
Mine stopped rattling after the extensive dampening, and I run them in the lowest position.
They used to buzz all the time from all those vibration harmonics traveling through the chassis. For me it's gone.
This guy has another solution to stop the rattle at the source.
https://www.civicxi.com/forum/threads/rattle-noise-from-seat-belt-fastener-drivers-side.50009/page-2
I started to open up the drivers side, broke the clip and decided to let it be, and I don't have the buzzing rattle sound anymore.
johnloov
Senior Member
I think it's overpriced.
It's probably really good, but honestly, this is just basic physics.
You need to get the most coverage the Resonix guy says in his videos. I watched them all several times.
I would simply just do this with the 4mm and then do the door 4mm, be done.
And 4mm here, and be Done with it. If you want even more sound deadening, then you can always go into the door panel, and put some dampening and do the same.
When I went into the Trunk, I realized FULL BLANKETCOVERAGE is key. Even the trunk area that has some metal showing, just transmitted sound, and today I noticed again it's even better.
BLANKET THE SOUND! Seal the sound out! That's the goal
This stuff is super light. If you get more expensive stuff, and can't fully blanket the sound, sound will just travel right around it, and now your project is close to useless.
It's probably really good, but honestly, this is just basic physics.
You need to get the most coverage the Resonix guy says in his videos. I watched them all several times.
I would simply just do this with the 4mm and then do the door 4mm, be done.
And 4mm here, and be Done with it. If you want even more sound deadening, then you can always go into the door panel, and put some dampening and do the same.
When I went into the Trunk, I realized FULL BLANKETCOVERAGE is key. Even the trunk area that has some metal showing, just transmitted sound, and today I noticed again it's even better.
BLANKET THE SOUND! Seal the sound out! That's the goal
This stuff is super light. If you get more expensive stuff, and can't fully blanket the sound, sound will just travel right around it, and now your project is close to useless.
Last edited:
johnloov
Senior Member
I'm all set on the M Pilot 4S - The car is now very good for driving to Laguna, having a track day and driving back. After the 4S - I'll move up to a Cup 2.
All the sound proofing made a big difference, and now my car is really perfect and my tinnitus is not getting triggered.
Love it.
track.n.trail
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Just wanted to thank everyone for all the information and photos in this thread. I just had some Kilmat, AggSound foam, and SM200L Thinsulate delivered. I’ll be starting with the trunk this week and will do the doors and front wheels wells next!
NeRO_CTR
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This is truly a labor of love. Thanks for sharing your journey! I’m glad everything worked out and that it kept you in the car; otherwise, we wouldn’t have gotten such an in depth thread. That said, I’m still curious.....does all this effort still just barely measure up to an Accord?
johnloov
Senior Member
I haven't been in an Accord for a while, but yes maybe similar - Accord has low noise tires - so probably much better - since I'm running PS4's and soon Cup2's - it's cutting out major NVH noise and vibrations from the road and tires - for sure the car feels like a vault, long distance journeys are a pleasure - stereo sounds superior - bass is tight - don't have to enable volume increase with speed option anymore - and the handling penalty is almost non existent - Type R dampening feels better not as bouncy - tracked frequently at Laguna Seca. When I step into my friends FL5, and close the doors - stock FL5 - it feels like a tin can. It was well worth it.
Last edited:
PippyLongstockings
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Amazing stuff. Now gotta tell the wife…thank you for all the hard work
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