Issues after Braided Brake Line install and Brake Bleed

Bazgab

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I have done countless brake bleeds and also completed several braided brake line installations in the past but the FL5 has proven to be difficult for some reason.

After installing the Dream/Hel braided brake lines, I flushed the whole system with Motul RBF660 and used the standard 2-person bleeding method. The brake pedal feels like shit and is super spongy. I took the car on a test drive and it was too dangerous to drive IMO, almost no brake feel and no stopping power unless you had your foot all the way to the floor. I got the car up and wheels off again, bled the system again and didn't notice any air bubbles at all. Same result, basically no brake pressure and too dangerous to drive.

Anyone else done these things have any tips? I am going to use the wife's car tomorrow and then try bleeding a 3rd time and do a torque check on all the lines.
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Bazgab

Bazgab

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Sure thing. I will report back after looking at it again tonight. It has to be air in the lines IMO.
 

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Air somewhere. Did you let the master get low? New copper washers?

this is why checking pedal pressure after each corner helps pin point which corner the problem lies.
 
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Bazgab

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Air somewhere. Did you let the master get low? New copper washers?

this is why checking pedal pressure after each corner helps pin point which corner the problem lies.
It has to be air bubbles, we will see after the rebleed. Master never got low and new copper washers were used on the rear banjo bolts since they came with the new braided lines.

Pedal pressure was good and firm when bleeding each corner. Didn't feel bad until the car was turned on
 
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Going to have to do this this weekend or next, interested to know what happened.

I was gonna get a speedibleed and do it that way so I don't have to bother my wife again since on my other car I will have to do it the 2 person method so saving the ask for when I have to do that lol
 
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Sounds like it will need to be bled again for sure. Make sure that you have the rear brakes out of maintenance mode before bleeding.
 

yeaitsahonda

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It has to be air bubbles, we will see after the rebleed. Master never got low and new copper washers were used on the rear banjo bolts since they came with the new braided lines.

Pedal pressure was good and firm when bleeding each corner. Didn't feel bad until the car was turned on
When you try bleeding the brakes again do it with the car running. Sometimes the vacuum assist will help with moving the air bubbles through the system.
 
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Bazgab

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I remembered I had bought a Speedi-bleed when I was getting the FL5 and tried using that. It just introduced a whole ton of new air bubbles to the system, seems like the outlet side is not sealing properly on the Speedi-bleed reservoir. I am in contact with the mfg to try to sort that out.

Roped my wife into helping me again to do the 2-person method. Went around 2 times just to be sure and turned the car on while it was still on my quickjacks, pedal a little better but still spongy.

I took the advice from @yeaitsahonda even though I had heard in the past that it is preferred to bleed the brakes with the car off. Did another bleeding round at each corner and got some more air bubbles out, nice! Pedal was feeling firmer so I slapped the wheels back on and lowered the car. I will likely bleed it again sometime soon as the very top of the pedal range is slightly soft but the rest of the range is very firm with good feedback.

Thanks for the input everyone.
 

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Good to hear about the speedibleed, I also hear that air inside a tire is not dry so could be a problem. I might just get a motive (or actually a smotivepro because they sell a cap for honda that looks like will create a good seal).

glad you got it working better, probably still a few small bubbles in the system. I hope this does not happen to me, srf is way to expensive to have to bleed 3 times+ 😆
 


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There is a specific procedure that you need to follow: start at the driver front, then passenger front, the passenger rear, then driver rear, then actuate the parking brake 5 times, then re-bleed the rears. You may need to do this more than once. Sounds like you introduced a lot of air into the system when you swapped the lines. If you're using the two person method, then have the person that is actuating the brake pedal to pump it 3-4 times slowly before pressing the pedal to the floor, then the person operating the bleed screw can open the bleeder.
 
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Bazgab

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Thanks @PointByPatrol. That order is different than I used. Typically used to starting furthest from the reservoir and working closer. I also didn't acuate the parking brake at all, good to know.

Pedal firmed up this morning so it actually feels good throughout the range now but I will get some additional fluid and bleed again shortly using this method.
 

PointByPatrol

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Thanks @PointByPatrol. That order is different than I used. Typically used to starting furthest from the reservoir and working closer. I also didn't acuate the parking brake at all, good to know.

Pedal firmed up this morning so it actually feels good throughout the range now but I will get some additional fluid and bleed again shortly using this method.
You should get a good bit of air out of the rears after actuating the parking brake!
 

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Get the service manual for the fk8 @Bazgab the procedure is listed there and its exactly what Pointbypatrol is saying.

The way I read it you don't have to do the rear brakes again if you are just flushing and did not introduce air to the system, you did though so you should definitely do that.
 
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Bazgab

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Get the service manual for the fk8 @Bazgab the procedure is listed there and its exactly what Pointbypatrol is saying.

The way I read it you don't have to do the rear brakes again if you are just flushing and did not introduce air to the system, you did though so you should definitely do that.
Thanks, I will do that. I do like having the service manual.

I already ordered some additional brake fluid and will be doing another flush this weekend.
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