Icehawk's "OEM+" speaker upgrade

[Icehawk]

Goal:
Improve overall sound quality via an "OEM+" style speaker upgrade using CDT Audio drivers. The OEM Bose system ecosystem will remain intact and no electronics will be added (L2Ci, etc). Fully reversible if desired.


I had done this with my ND Miata's Bose system (CDT ES-6.2 woofer and JL C1-075 tweeter) and it was well worth the moderate cost & ease of installation particularly at higher volumes which, in a convertible, is important. The Miata community liked this enough that a vendor, Paco Motorsports, sells kits centered around CDT Audio 2ohm speakers.

To quote myself from the Miata.net forum, "Now the car sounds like it should. IMO, if the stock system sounded like this I wouldn't have done a thing." Previously I had stated that the Bose system was "junk" (it is).

CDT Audio drivers:
ES-6.2 door (2ohm), 2nds/refurbished - I've bought these twice now and both times they appear to be 1st quality
CF-3 dash (this is a DVC so can be wired for 2ohm) ***UPDATED NOTE*** The center speaker measured to 4ohm, I will be choosing a different driver for this position
ES-1200iS tweeters (4ohm but high sensitivity, should be fine based on prior Bose replacement experience). Have done nothing here regarding crossover... TBD
Total price: $310 (all numbers inc shipping)

A much less costly version (~$125) of this could be built using CL-6.2 & ET-250 and skipping the center speaker that I bet it will still be an audible upgrade over stock especially as you turn the volume up.

I'd like to do the rear doors (1" tweeter, 5.25" woofer) but I can't find 2ohm 5.25" drivers. ***UPDATED NOTE*** 5.25" measure 4ohm. Worst case I'll opt for CDT CL-5 2nds and pair it with ET-250 2nds so the "voicing" of the system is consistent and keep costs reasonable (~$120). Not sure if it's worth throwing more money at the rear spot with ES-5s and Es-1200iS (~$225) but... it's "only" +$100 so knowing me I'll probably go with them

Not convinced that replacing the sub's driver is worth it based on FK8 posts unless you l2Ci/amp it, so no plans currently to modify this. Definitely not going to waste time or money on the two rear 3" speakers that are firing directly at each other - no idea wth the designers were thinking there, if they aimed at the rear glass it would make more sense.

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[Icehawk]

Hello!

Still need to get harnesses and "bass blockers" for the tweeters and center. Not sure why but the tweeters did not come with any documentation, the 3" docs recommend a 300hz cutoff. I'll call CDT tomorrow to see what they suggest for the tweeters (update: they recommended 4.7uf cap).

 

[Icehawk]

Today I took everything apart to assess what else I need and I'm leaning towards having my installer guy do the work because everything is going to need a custom mounting adapter and the wiring is ultra short. The tweeters will require some finagling or cludging, and on a brand new car... yeah, I want it done proper. ***update*** looks like there are adapters for the doors and harnesses for all 3 speaker sets, I've ordered them up.

An important note:
ONLY the front 6.5" door speakers are 2ohm - the tweeters and center speakers measured out as 4ohm.

I'll probably return the CDT center and go with the Infinity Kappa 300 that's been discussed in past threads as I don't need a 2ohm speaker like I had assumed. If I end up doing the rear doors I'll take the time to measure them, I'd *assume* the tweeters are 4ohm but now I'm less convinced the 5.25" are 2ohm - maybe they are 4ohm and that would make swapping simple.

The tweeters have a cap, I couldn't see the uf rating on the one I looked at though. Nothing on the center speaker that I saw.

Replacement center speaker can be very large/deep - lots of room. You could probably rig a 5.25" in there

Wouldn't shock me if you could stuff an 8" in the door too if you're willing to cut a bit although I didn't put the windows down to see if it would interfere. Seemed like a lot of space though.



If anyone knows the plug type of the center and/or tweeters please let me know. Supposedly the doors are 72-7800 - however I believe they actually use a "horn" adapter.

No surprise to me that the Bose speakers are lightweight junk, pictures so you can see for yourself:

6.5" door

3" center

1" tweeter

 

[JDM_DOHC_SiR]

If anyone knows the plug type of the center and/or tweeters please let me know. Supposedly the doors are 72-7800.

This is what you will need for the Center Channel Speaker and Tweeters. I used this when I changed out my Center Channel Speaker to a Kappa 20MX I tried using the 300m but I ran into cone issues and surprisingly depth issues it would have required me to had the crap out of the panel .. so I just stuck with the Kappa 20MX and I have been quite impressed with it, made the sound stage very focused now

https://www.amazon.com/RED-WOLF-Twe...B08C4MQDPB&psc=1&ref_=pd_bap_d_grid_rp_0_30_t

 

[Tickle]

That's a bummer. I have a spare 300M from my accord laying around.

 

[Icehawk]

This is what you will need for the Center Channel Speaker and Tweeters. I used this when I changed out my Center Channel Speaker to a Kappa 20MX I tried using the 300m but I ran into cone issues and surprisingly depth issues it would have required me to had the crap out of the panel .. so I just stuck with the Kappa 20MX and I have been quite impressed with it, made the sound stage very focused now

https://www.amazon.com/RED-WOLF-Twe...B08C4MQDPB&psc=1&ref_=pd_bap_d_grid_rp_0_30_t

Thanks a million for that info/link! I've ordered all the adapters and harnesses I *think* I need, I'll update this once I have them and have confirmed fitment.

I'm surprised the 300m wouldn't fit but it's pretty chunky. The CDT I have is a lot bigger than the stock junker, I did a quick test fit and there didn't appear to be any issue - the waveguide might need to go but that's NBD. I'll ping CDT tomorrow and see about exchanging the one I have for something in 4ohm, of course that means I'll have an extra since every other option comes as a pair...

 

[JDM_DOHC_SiR]

I mean it could work but the 300M is 4" from center to center for the mount holes.. would require a bit of work but I wasn't willing to hack up the center channel speaker cover to make it work.. But there is another way

 

[Icehawk]

Wait, wut? That must be from another model?

I might ask my shop guys just to rig the mounting of the center/tweeters since they have way more experience - otherwise I'm probably going to resort to straps and hot glue. This is where I wish I had a 3D printer!

 

[mbaapk]

You guys are talented, i read this stuff nd its greek to me. I need to find a good installer near me. Anyone willing to list links to complete set of parts needed (speakers, harnesses, etc. ) when done? Definitely want to do the sub box too.

 

[Icehawk]

Yes, once I get this completed I will be sure to have a post that clarifies exactly what's needed. I have door adapters and wiring harnesses on the way and once I confirm what fits I will update here.

My hunch is that anyone can (and should!) do the door speakers without much effort, it's mounting the center and tweeters that poses a bit of an issue and where I might engage my installer shop so it's not me just hacking into a nice car. This is just another reason I want to move to a house with a garage/shop space so I can get a 3D printer going.

 

[JDM_DOHC_SiR]

Wait, wut? That must be from another model

Perhaps

https://mikstoreph.com/collections/...ts/civic-2022-bose-center-and-pillar-speakers

 

[Icehawk]

Ah, yes. I don't think that's necessary - there is a ton of room, it's just how you mount the speaker/modify the grille need a little work.

 

[JDM_DOHC_SiR]

Will be interesting to see what you can fit.... if some how you can come up with a way to keep the integrity of the panel and still find a way to make the larger midrange 4" work, then I'll definitely switch up to the 300M

 

[AspecR]

Grateful for you guys doing the heavy lifting. Patiently waiting to do this when it’s complete

 

[Icehawk]

Door speakers are done, they were pretty easy. Hard to judge the improvement (it's there though), as just like the last time I did doors only on a Bose system - all I'm hearing now are terrible tweeters! They are next up, probably a weekend project.

Parts needed are:
Ai HSB524 2006-2012 Honda Speaker Adaptor
X AUTOHAUX Car Speaker Wire Adapter Audio Horn Harness Cable Connector for Honda Civic 2pcs

The adapter needs trimming of the outer tabs

Pic of the plug showing polarity (I'm pretty sure it's right, sigh)

The mount needed some padding to make sure it was a tight fit, I used some sound deadener I had left over from ages ago. Pic below is from before I noticed it was a bit loose at the bottom. If you look at my mounted pic you can see bits peeking out.

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