Big willow track days and temp issues

RacingIsLife

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Coolant temps did not exceed 210F. Ambient was in the mid 70s F. I may install an oil temp sensor at some point, likely next year. Feeding air via the brake inlets and air out the brake outlet holes. I did not plumb any additional inlets or outlets, yet. A lazy version of your setup, if you will. If I could do it again I'd use the CSF cores you did but I already bought the Setrab cores I installed.
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siwelnosaj

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Coolant temps did not exceed 210F. Ambient was in the mid 70s F. I may install an oil temp sensor at some point, likely next year. Feeding air via the brake inlets and air out the brake outlet holes. I did not plumb any additional inlets or outlets, yet. A lazy version of your setup, if you will. If I could do it again I'd use the CSF cores you did but I already bought the Setrab cores I installed.
I'll be looking forward to seeing what you get on track

I'm going next month on the 20th
 

Rhorn

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Coolant temps did not exceed 210F. Ambient was in the mid 70s F. I may install an oil temp sensor at some point, likely next year. Feeding air via the brake inlets and air out the brake outlet holes. I did not plumb any additional inlets or outlets, yet. A lazy version of your setup, if you will. If I could do it again I'd use the CSF cores you did but I already bought the Setrab cores I installed.
Whats different about the Setrab oil coolers? Wondering why you regret not getting the CSF, is it just a fitment thing?
 

RacingIsLife

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Purely fitment. If you look at Jason's setup his coolers are right above the brake duct. So you retain the factory brake ducting. And the coolers are mounted higher in case of a ground impact. Etc.

That said it's not as much regret as it's just what I'd do if hadn't already bought the Setrab coolers.

On a side note... Blows my mind how much cooler my EVO X runs versus the FL5. My Evo has 320whp (mustang dyno) and dual 19 row mishi oil coolers and a mishi radiator. I have an oil temp sensor hooked up to a sandwich plate and it barely gets to 190 F on my Touge run in 85F weather. Most of the time it sits at high 160's when I'm cruising on the highway which is too cold actually. The heat that the headifold dumps into the engine is unreal on the K20.
 

siwelnosaj

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Purely fitment. If you look at Jason's setup his coolers are right above the brake duct. So you retain the factory brake ducting. And the coolers are mounted higher in case of a ground impact. Etc.

That said it's not as much regret as it's just what I'd do if hadn't already bought the Setrab coolers.

On a side note... Blows my mind how much cooler my EVO X runs versus the FL5. My Evo has 320whp (mustang dyno) and dual 19 row mishi oil coolers and a mishi radiator. I have an oil temp sensor hooked up to a sandwich plate and it barely gets to 190 F on my Touge run in 85F weather. Most of the time it sits at high 160's when I'm cruising on the highway which is too cold actually. The heat that the headifold dumps into the engine is unreal on the K20.
You're planning to track the car right? What's your brake set up? My main concern with using the brake ducts would be cooking the brake fluid.
 


RacingIsLife

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Yes, tracking the car. At the two tracks hardest on brakes in the USA as well (Per Carbotech when I spoke to them years ago, they cited client data), Blackhawk farms and Road America. I'm going to adopt GT3 brake guides and remove the heat shields as well for the FL5. That's worked decent in my EVO X. That said, I'm an advanced level driver but not a track record holder type driver like you, so I'm sure you're much harder on brakes than I am.
 

ABPDE5

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On a side note... Blows my mind how much cooler my EVO X runs versus the FL5. My Evo has 320whp (mustang dyno) and dual 19 row mishi oil coolers and a mishi radiator. I have an oil temp sensor hooked up to a sandwich plate and it barely gets to 190 F on my Touge run in 85F weather. Most of the time it sits at high 160's when I'm cruising on the highway which is too cold actually. The heat that the headifold dumps into the engine is unreal on the K20.
Lots of cars use headifolds, though, and the FL5 cooling is worse than many of them. I really don't think that's the issue. The coolant routing, thermostat programming, etc. for this car is bad for heat management.

Additionally, based on evidence from others here, I would venture to say the PRL IC is hurting you pretty badly by seriously inhibiting airflow to the radiator. Even with your oil coolers, the radiator is the primary source of heat exchange, so flow there is paramount.

And, lastly, the emissions on the Evo are way worse than the FL5. Unfortunately, this is just going to get worse as requirements get tougher, cars run leaner, prioritize heat, etc.
 

RacingIsLife

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With the stock IC I saw 212F water temp on Touge and 230F at Road America. Just one oil cooler though. So still plenty hot for just the stock IC. But yeah this engine runs hot.
 

siwelnosaj

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Yes, tracking the car. At the two tracks hardest on brakes in the USA as well (Per Carbotech when I spoke to them years ago, they cited client data), Blackhawk farms and Road America. I'm going to adopt GT3 brake guides and remove the heat shields as well for the FL5. That's worked decent in my EVO X. That said, I'm an advanced level driver but not a track record holder type driver like you, so I'm sure you're much harder on brakes than I am.
Your gt3 guide idea, can you share more? I'm intrigued
 


siwelnosaj

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Yep check this out, they are cheap as hell too like $7 each. This is an example for the BRZ

https://www.google.com/url?sa=t&sou...Qjjh6BAgVEAE&usg=AOvVaw1lVUq9afw9dlYf6UoTevoK
Pretty cool idea. Will it catch air just from what flows under the car or will you be ducting air to it in some fashion?

One of the ideas I had originally when I was coming up with my oil cooler set up was to use the brake ducts with the oil cooler covers similar to what I have going on now, and to get air to the brakes via tunnels on my splitter. I still like the concept but I knew it wouldn't work for those without a splitter.
 

RacingIsLife

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Pretty cool idea. Will it catch air just from what flows under the car or will you be ducting air to it in some fashion?

One of the ideas I had originally when I was coming up with my oil cooler set up was to use the brake ducts with the oil cooler covers similar to what I have going on now, and to get air to the brakes via tunnels on my splitter. I still like the concept but I knew it wouldn't work for those without a splitter.
Just underneath the car. I'll still have the OEM air outlet that feeds to the OEM brake scoops as well.
 

RacingIsLife

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Some good info, for relative oil cooler sizing

https://www.pegasusautoracing.com/pdfs/SetrabApplicationSuggestions.pdf

The series 1, 25 row cooler I'm using, part number 50-125-7612, for example are suggested for up to 190hp, with 2.4 psi pressure drop. I'm running two of them as you know. But overall gives you an idea of what Setrab recommends. One reason why I am using Setrab is because they are one of the few manufacturers that publishes detailed data like pressure drop, btu/hr data.
 
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BuntaTypeR

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This was on the freeway using the oil cooler but the real test will be on saturday when i track the car. The temp will be 105 F on that track day.

I have setrab on my other car and i recommend them. It survived 103 F track days at buttonwillow, streets of willow and big willow. Although, i think there are much more cost effective solutions that takes a full day to customize and tests.
 

siwelnosaj

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This was on the freeway using the oil cooler but the real test will be on saturday when i track the car. The temp will be 105 F on that track day.

I have setrab on my other car and i recommend them. It survived 103 F track days at buttonwillow, streets of willow and big willow. Although, i think there are much more cost effective solutions that takes a full day to customize and tests.
Without a dedicated oil temp sensor we won't see accurate oil temps
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