New CTR at HPDE - Critical Fault - Any insight?

CRX-CTR

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Hi All

New guy here, but I’ve enjoyed wandering through this forum before and after purchasing a 2024 CTR in May. I wanted to tap into the collective mind before I do a deep dive into a problem with my car.

One reason I bought the CTR was to explore getting back into the HPDE world after a 20+ year gap (signifiant experience in a Honda CRX back in the day), so I attended a Porsche Club HPDE at a road course this weekend.

My CTR had 2,300 miles on it on the first track day, and track prep consisted of changing the engine oil/filter, removing the underhood rain guard, changing the brake fluid to Castrol SRF and installing Paragon P3 pads (which folks here seem to like) at about 1,700 miles. Everything else is stock. On track, I was in R+ mode and the double-beep VSC fully off mode.

In my first run group of the first day, I was becoming re-familiar with the track for about 20 minutes at a decent clip of speed but obviously not approaching 10/10ths, when I started to notice a shudder under braking. It felt similar to a warped rotor but braking effectiveness remained fairly constant (so not like green fade when you lose braking ability). I pitted and, as there was pad residue on the rotors, the Tech consensus was that I hadn’t fully bedded the brake pads at sufficiently high heat.

I let the brakes cool down to ambient temperature and then drove 10 miles on local roads, with no issues. Brakes felt fine with both light and hard stops.

In my second run group, I did a standard warm up lap and then started to run at speed on the second lap. As I was entering the third lap, the shudder returned under braking. Two turns later, which is a “keyhole” type turn to the right, the shudder was more pronounced under braking, had a different feel and then continued after I let off the brakes and while I was turning sharply right and starting to accelerate. And, the shudder in the turn now was really moving the steering wheel, more than in the other previous occurrences (where this was happening in a straight line). I backed off and then took the car into the pits.

So, key fact here, the shudder was now present when I was off the brakes and the car was under side load. No shudder under mild acceleration in a straight line as I returned to the pits.

And therein ended my track weekend, which made for an expensive bummer. And I was the only Honda at the event, so not really putting in a good show for the brand either.

As I drove the 100 miles home, on the interstate, the car felt a little more “growly” through my foot on the floorboard. That’s a little subjective though and might just have been me looking for a clue to the issue. However, when off the highway, the car had a bit of a growl noticeable in the last 10 or so feet stopping at a stop sign from lower city speed (both slightly via the pedal and also in terms of the sound).

I have another car on my lift at the moment, so it will be a few days before I can put the CTR up and check out the car. Obviously, the car is well within warranty, but I’d like to help point them in the right direction in order to get a better end result. And, thus, I thought some other folks here might have some collective insight on what may have happened and what to check over when it’s up on my lift.

Appreciate it.....
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svvitch

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Shudder could be pad deposits I think someone else mentioned this with Paragon before?

Howl or growling on highway - what tires are you running? Could just be other people's rubber picked up and it'll go away in time?
 

scuderia_miso

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Sounds like you may have warped your rotors by having uneven pad residue on them. If it is just pad residue it should clean up. If the rotors are actually warped you might need to replace them.

The P3 pads are not track pads. The stock pads are probably better track pads TBH. I thought I could get away with running P3's with my big brake kit, which runs a bit cooler than stock setup, and even that was a mistake. I had the same issue but less severe. Paragon suggested I drive a bunch of light street miles or run a more aggressive pad to clean the rotors off. I have since ditched the P3's for R5's.

Paragon is also a good resource since you bought your pads from them you could contact them. They were very helpful IMO.
 

GWonder

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Picture of rotors? Does it look like it has pad material smeared on it? Easy way to clean it is to put a set of new more aggressive pads on and just daily drive it till it's back to normal. Usually in a few weeks. I highly doubt your rotors are warped.
 
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GWonder

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Also check your pads on all 4 corners inside and out to see if you still have pad material. The growling is a possible hint of metal on metal.
 

BigBird

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sounds like bedding process didn't go well. R5 fronts/P3 rear is what I tried this weekend and they were great. It was raining, used TC, and I did not getting the fronts bedded in properly and ended up with the same thing you describe.

It'll clean up eventually.
 

yeaitsahonda

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Sounds identical to my first track day with the FL5. I ran Performance Friction pads up front with stock rears. The shake was so bad I thought I had a wheel coming loose. It started on braking only but in the second session could feel it even when not on the brakes. I pitted in and swapped back to OEM pads and finished the weekend. IDK what the OE pads are but they seem to not work well with swapping pads. Next time I go out I'm going to get a dedicated set of track pads and rotors.
 

BigBird

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Sounds identical to my first track day with the FL5. I ran Performance Friction pads up front with stock rears. The shake was so bad I thought I had a wheel coming loose. It started on braking only but in the second session could feel it even when not on the brakes. I pitted in and swapped back to OEM pads and finished the weekend. IDK what the OE pads are but they seem to not work well with swapping pads. Next time I go out I'm going to get a dedicated set of track pads and rotors.
Tried PF08 on the FL5 and then another set on my DE5, and liked them, but yeah they are rough with the pad deposits and vibration. Will test out the Paragon R5 again with a proper bed-in and dry track day.
 

blackert

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i had the same exact experience with my P3 front pads on my last track day a few weeks ago.

thought i properly bedded them in on the street but then got a ton of heat in them on track and they started shuttering BAD under hard braking. i inspected the rotors after the first session and found a lot of uneven pad deposit on the rotors. ended up just pushing through it as i figured the damage was already done if i warped the rotors and set my PB for that track on the last session.

i’ve been driving with the P3’s on the street since then (probably 500 miles) and the pad material has evened out completely and there is no more shuttering under hard braking, or at least from what i can tell braking on the street. i will find out for sure next track day on sunday.
 


BigBird

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also remember these are floating discs, so it's harder to warp the rotors. most vibrations will not be due to warped discs
 
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CRX-CTR

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Thanks all...this was exactly the personal experience/ CTR-specific feedback I was hoping for when posting. Obviously, I chose the wrong brake pads. I didn't have the OE pads at the track either, I was packed pretty light. The brake pad residue has already started to come off the inner and outer sections of the rotor face. I'm going to drop back in the OEM pads and figure out a new plan for next year using the above brake pad link, as this CTR gets stored during winter (which arrives shortly).

To complete the circle, I'm thinking the shudder was magnified by a combination of the ABS trying to do its job as the friction level varied and the pad residue creating an uneven rotor surface. And the growl on the highway was most likely the tires, as I was running the stock Michelins and they can both pick up track rubber and slightly asymmetrically trim the tread blocks under the prevalent right hand turns. The growl at the stop signs was most likely just the uneven pad residue.

Fun car on the track, though. Felt like a grown-up CRX to me.
 

TW00Si

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I had the same shuddering under braking experience with the P3 front pads. @MooMoo had the same except mine went away after a day of HPDE and his didn’t.
 

MooMoo

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@CRX-CTR
As @TW00Si mentioned I had a similar experience with my R5 in front. It was really bad, the car was undrivable by the last session of the day.

I tried to do everything under the sun to fix my issue with the R5s, i couldn't until I moved to EBC R11 which are way more abrasive and for like 3 days straight while cold go and bed the shit out of the pads to get rid of the deposits. I just dont think the paragons are abrasive enough to accomplish this so if your deposits are really bad I dunno if you can get it cleaned up with those pads (I couldn't). Now mine seem almost perfect, little to no judder.

Some have good luck with paragon and I think the key is bed em more than you think they need bedding, you really gotta get on them to get that layer transfered and the one from the OEM pads removed.
 

BigBird

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To complete the circle, I'm thinking the shudder was magnified by a combination of the ABS trying to do its job as the friction level varied and the pad residue creating an uneven rotor surface.
this is a good point as well. The TC/ABS will intervene and it may not be a smooth application and that will make the deposits worse.
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