CivicSportSGP
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This is an initial "review" of the Lasfit T3 7443. In just 600+ miles, these are the second set of LED turn signals I have installed in this car. So far, they worked as advertised. Though I doubt these are "4000" Lumens. I prefer the design of this bulb over their previous attempt at a "resistor-free" LED. And if Type R owners are using Lasfit, I don't see why my plebian FL2 can't.
https://www.amazon.com/LASFIT-Signal-Extremely-Resistor-Standard/dp/B0C8M81CY1
If I'm honest, I have a big disdain for Lasfit, stemming back to my 10th gen days. They tend to "buy" influencers by sending free product and make up absurd specs. No matter what, replacement LED bulbs cannot make 13000 lumens. Especially if the headlight or foglight housing is not designed for it. For more information about this topic, please see these threads in Tacoma World.
https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads/3rd-gen-hid-vs-led-vs-halogen-h11-projector-headlights.589465/
https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads/why-leds-should-not-be-run-in-halogen-reflectors.454371/
For that reason, I used bulbs from either Diode Dynamics or VLEDS, or brands used by professional headlight builders. When my FL2 first arrived, I replaced the turn signals with the GTR Lighting i-LEDs that, too, were installed in my FC2.
After a few days, I replaced the reverse lights with VLEDS V6 Tritons, bulbs I used in my FC2 and my old Focus. I tried to do it a the same time as the turn signals, but when following the instructions, the base of the bulb was either too small or, using the included adapter collar, too big to fit in the opening. After some help from VLEDS, I was able to make them work. Coverage and output were amazing and felt as if you had headlights in the rear.
https://www.vleds.com/v6-triton-extreme-kit-w-921.html
You may be reading the title wondering why I mentioned the above. Well, after four days, the combination of the VLEDS and i-LED caused two fuses on the BCM to pop, and "bricked" my FL2 with 168 miles on the odometer. Thinking this was something else, I limped the car to my nearest Honda dealer, only for them to say the cause of my issue was these bulbs. As a result, I ended paying for a hefty diagnostic fee and was charged $40+ for four incandescent bulbs. Though, after this happened, I noticed the nut holding the positive terminal was loose and at the end of the bolt. I tightend it down and talked to the service manager, who mentioned that one of the techs may have disconnected the battery for a hard reset.
Long-story short, instead beefy bulbs with heat sinks, I just went with direct replacements. The XPRs, while not as bright as the VLEDS, still utilize the reflectors in the housing well. However, since there's a tiny heatsink at the tip of the bulb, there's no light going forward.
https://www.diodedynamics.com/921-xpr-cool-white-backup-led-bulbs.html
I'll update this thread to see if I experience the same failure as last time. And include a night shot of the Lasfit bulbs. Though the XPRs have been in my car for almost a week.
https://www.amazon.com/LASFIT-Signal-Extremely-Resistor-Standard/dp/B0C8M81CY1
If I'm honest, I have a big disdain for Lasfit, stemming back to my 10th gen days. They tend to "buy" influencers by sending free product and make up absurd specs. No matter what, replacement LED bulbs cannot make 13000 lumens. Especially if the headlight or foglight housing is not designed for it. For more information about this topic, please see these threads in Tacoma World.
https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads/3rd-gen-hid-vs-led-vs-halogen-h11-projector-headlights.589465/
https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads/why-leds-should-not-be-run-in-halogen-reflectors.454371/
For that reason, I used bulbs from either Diode Dynamics or VLEDS, or brands used by professional headlight builders. When my FL2 first arrived, I replaced the turn signals with the GTR Lighting i-LEDs that, too, were installed in my FC2.
After a few days, I replaced the reverse lights with VLEDS V6 Tritons, bulbs I used in my FC2 and my old Focus. I tried to do it a the same time as the turn signals, but when following the instructions, the base of the bulb was either too small or, using the included adapter collar, too big to fit in the opening. After some help from VLEDS, I was able to make them work. Coverage and output were amazing and felt as if you had headlights in the rear.
https://www.vleds.com/v6-triton-extreme-kit-w-921.html
You may be reading the title wondering why I mentioned the above. Well, after four days, the combination of the VLEDS and i-LED caused two fuses on the BCM to pop, and "bricked" my FL2 with 168 miles on the odometer. Thinking this was something else, I limped the car to my nearest Honda dealer, only for them to say the cause of my issue was these bulbs. As a result, I ended paying for a hefty diagnostic fee and was charged $40+ for four incandescent bulbs. Though, after this happened, I noticed the nut holding the positive terminal was loose and at the end of the bolt. I tightend it down and talked to the service manager, who mentioned that one of the techs may have disconnected the battery for a hard reset.
Long-story short, instead beefy bulbs with heat sinks, I just went with direct replacements. The XPRs, while not as bright as the VLEDS, still utilize the reflectors in the housing well. However, since there's a tiny heatsink at the tip of the bulb, there's no light going forward.
https://www.diodedynamics.com/921-xpr-cool-white-backup-led-bulbs.html
I'll update this thread to see if I experience the same failure as last time. And include a night shot of the Lasfit bulbs. Though the XPRs have been in my car for almost a week.
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