Engine Bang, Knock, during shifting WOT acceleration

[Vtak Groceries]

Hello everyone.

I have noticed on my 2023 Type R since it was brand new, a banging sound or knock which comes from the passenger side firewall. This noise happens during hard shifting, usually from 2nd to 3rd gear. Yesterday I was able to replicate this sound with 1st gear shifting into 2nd hard. The sound only happens if I shift aggressively and go on the throttle ASAP.

I dont know what is causing it. Its hard to replicate because it doesn't always do it. It makes me wonder if something is hitting the firewall, possibly due to bad/loose engine mounts.

Not sure if anyone has experienced this. Ive noticed it happen now a hand-full of times ever since I finished the break in period and started driving it hard.

I could go to the dealer, but not sure what they would find. And to replicate the issue they would have to drive my car hard. lol.

Anyone else's car do this?

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[Bigfx]

Check your motor mounts see if any are messed up.

 

[Fanatic]

I don't notice anything unusual on both my Civic type Rs. Maybe user error or maybe have your reputable local service rep try to duplicate what you're talking about.

 

[AspecR]

Hello everyone.

I have noticed on my 2023 Type R since it was brand new, a banging sound or knock which comes from the passenger side firewall. This noise happens during hard shifting, usually from 2nd to 3rd gear. Yesterday I was able to replicate this sound with 1st gear shifting into 2nd hard. The sound only happens if I shift aggressively and go on the throttle ASAP.

I dont know what is causing it. Its hard to replicate because it doesn't always do it. It makes me wonder if something is hitting the firewall, possibly due to bad/loose engine mounts.

Not sure if anyone has experienced this. Ive noticed it happen now a hand-full of times ever since I finished the break in period and started driving it hard.

I could go to the dealer, but not sure what they would find. And to replicate the issue they would have to drive my car hard. lol.

Anyone else's car do this?

You sir, have found the limits of the stock rear motor mount. If you’d like to get rid of that knock, you have to buy an upgraded rear mount from either PRL or Hasport. These mounts will increase NVH within the car but they are well worth the upgrade. They remove that knock you feel on hard shifts, they reduce wheel hop and also help put the power down.

 

[Jester04]

You sir, have found the limits of the stock rear motor mount. If you’d like to get rid of that knock, you have to buy an upgraded rear mount from either PRL or Hasport. These mounts will increase NVH within the car but they are well worth the upgrade. They remove that knock you feel on hard shifts, they reduce wheel hop and also help put the power down.

This guy knows! ^

 

[Vtak Groceries]

You sir, have found the limits of the stock rear motor mount. If you’d like to get rid of that knock, you have to buy an upgraded rear mount from either PRL or Hasport. These mounts will increase NVH within the car but they are well worth the upgrade. They remove that knock you feel on hard shifts, they reduce wheel hop and also help put the power down.

Yeah that is my thoughts too. Ive been thinking of getting a mount. I just cant see a brand new bone stock car having this issue. Super odd.

But is it only my car or anyone else?

 

[cryptolime]

it's the rear motor mount. too much slop allowing things to move around. I got the Powerflex street inserts for my Type R mount. Haven't installed it yet though. Was going to today after rotating my tires but almost passed out from the heat/humidity. The powerflex street is 70a durometer and the black is 90a.

https://www.powerflexusa.com/shop/p...que-mount-insert-8901?category=2484#attr=2826

Have a PRL mount but the vibrations were too much for me, especially when using A/C so i removed it. it did drive sooo much better though if you can deal with the NVH.

 

[cryptolime]

You sir, have found the limits of the stock rear motor mount. If you’d like to get rid of that knock, you have to buy an upgraded rear mount from either PRL or Hasport. These mounts will increase NVH within the car but they are well worth the upgrade. They remove that knock you feel on hard shifts, they reduce wheel hop and also help put the power down.

i didn't even care about the wheel hop, it just made shifting significantly more precise and the car felt like it gained a ton of torque. unfortunately, it's a bit too much for daily driving, at least, with the A/C running.

 

[Integra23]

RMM is the issue like others have mentioned. I had clunking when letting off throttle on the stock RMM. I replaced it with a hasport which removed this completely.

 

[AspecR]

Yeah that is my thoughts too. Ive been thinking of getting a mount. I just cant see a brand new bone stock car having this issue. Super odd.

But is it only my car or anyone else?

They designed it that way on purpose. The stock mount is designed to smooth out some drivetrain lash and extra vibration.

 

[madbikes]

Yeah that is my thoughts too. Ive been thinking of getting a mount. I just cant see a brand new bone stock car having this issue. Super odd.

But is it only my car or anyone else?

I am surprised you didn't grind 2nd gear from doing 1-2 shifts hard, let alone feeling an actual knock/shock from shifting hard.

Similar to many modern cars, the FL5 rear motor mount is pretty soft. Great for comfort, but allow too much movement for performance driving. Like others have said, get the PRL one if you care about cabin vibration since the K20C1 is not the smoothest engine.

You can always ask for a ride from someone who has upgraded rear motor mount before you commit which mount to buy.

 

[Vtak Groceries]

Just a update, I bought and installed a Power flex bushing insert for the dog-bone rear mount. This was a good upgrade for wheel hop and I recommend it. I can spin through 1st now smoothly and shift into 2nd without any resistance or grind potential.

As for my issue with the banging sound - Still there, and maybe even worse now that I installed the powerflex bushing. It sounds like a bushing is being pulled in and out during acceleration / deceleration, But only happens at very high engine loads. I think it could be subframe or engine mount's. Still more troubleshooting to do.

 

[jtlctr]

I would start by checking all the other engine/transmission mount fasteners. The exhaust could be hitting somewhere too. I’m inclined to think if the subframe was loose at all, you’d hear that more with suspension movement. Can’t hurt to check though!
I’m curious to hear what you find!

 

[Zone47]

it's the rear motor mount. too much slop allowing things to move around. I got the Powerflex street inserts for my Type R mount. Haven't installed it yet though. Was going to today after rotating my tires but almost passed out from the heat/humidity. The powerflex street is 70a durometer and the black is 90a.

https://www.powerflexusa.com/shop/p...que-mount-insert-8901?category=2484#attr=2826

Have a PRL mount but the vibrations were too much for me, especially when using A/C so i removed it. it did drive sooo much better though if you can deal with the NVH.

It looks like a good option. I'm guessing the black might still vibrate too much?

 

[cryptolime]

It looks like a good option. I'm guessing the black might still vibrate too much?

i imagine so. i haven't tried the black. my goal was a stiffer rmm while minimizing NVH.

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