Lowering Springs

[Vaughn K]

Good morning all, I’ve seen some people damaging the axle seals when installing lowering springs. Could anyone give insight on how to avoid this or if it’s even related?

Sponsored

 

[miles_away]

At least on the non-Type-R models , the front lower control arms have a sharp bracket welded to them, which sit just below the outer CV axle boots. During the install, it's very easy to cut the boot on that bracket.

I covered that bracket with a folded up microfiber towel when I did lowering springs on my Si. My CV boots looked fine despite getting pushed against the towel/bracket.

 

[garettb16]

This happened to me (gearbox side) The seal was $11 and needed to be replaced as it was kinked.
You can’t see the seal when the shaft is in as it is covered by the gearbox casing.

It happens on that side because when the shock is removed and the whole stub assembly is pulled forward to get the shock out the drive shaft pulls out of the gearbox slightly and likely damages the seal if it is on an awkward angle.

Id suggest if possible to check it before pushing the axle back in.

 

[Sonny]

This happened to me (gearbox side) The seal was $11 and needed to be replaced as it was kinked.
You can’t see the seal when the shaft is in as it is covered by the gearbox casing.

It happens on that side because when the shock is removed and the whole stub assembly is pulled forward to get the shock out the drive shaft pulls out of the gearbox slightly and likely damages the seal if it is on an awkward angle.

Id suggest if possible to check it before pushing the axle back in.

 

[Sonny]

It happened to me too But I don't know the part number for the seal, where did you get your seal and what part number?

 

[BigBird]

It happened to me too But I don't know the part number for the seal, where did you get your seal and what part number?

91205-RT4-003

 

[MooMoo]

I believe what people are doing is removing the axle nut so that when it slides it does not rip the seal

 

[BigBird]

I believe what people are doing is removing the axle nut so that when it slides it does not rip the seal

I did it without removing the axle nut. Think it needs like 242 ft-lbs of torque, and well I didn't want to go that route

 

[TypeR_Kevv]

I also ripped the seal, I had it replaced yesterday. It's an expensive mistake! It could have been saved by just backing out the axle nut, but I didn't see any installation guides mentioning that.

 

[Vince2133]

I've done this twice on my 16 and 23. Learned a lot both times the hard way unfortunately.
1st time we didn't learn about tip 1 below, 2nd time I didn't know about tip 2 smh.

Theres 2 step that's not explained in DIY anywhere that are key to getting this done without struggling and damaging the boot.

1. You turn the axle by turning the studs left/right and that'll help you push the hub in and out.

2. AFTER you remove the 3 nuts from the control arm and jack up the hub and letting it drop to let the strut out, you HAVE TO mount the hub back to the control arm. You don't have to bolt it in you just need it to sit back in the 3 holes.

I swapped the spring and mounted back in reverse at first as it was common sense to me, with the hub dangling out of the control arm, trying to wrestle the hub back into the 3 holes was impossible, and thats how I puncutured my boot. After hours I realized how easy you can just push down the control arm, so I mounted the hub back on and got the strut back in like nothing.

Hope someone sees this, it's really easy and simple once you get this down.

Sponsored